The town of Le-Baux-de-Provence rises on a rock (baus in Provençal means “steep rock”), from the top of which there is a fantastic view of the valley with the ominous name Valley of Hell. This name is associated with numerous legends about witches and fairies.
People have inhabited this rock since the Neolithic era, but the most vivid mark was left by the feudal family of Baux, who built their castle here in 905. They were warrior aristocrats, of whom the poet Frédéric Mistral said that “they are always belligerent, but never submissive.” “Raso d’eigloun, jamai vassalo” – “The eagle’s lineage knows no vassalage,” was the response from the height of the eagle’s nest, and hardly anyone could dispute that. The winds of war and blood, intrigue and betrayal blew from the heights of Le Baux across feudal Europe. This same wind gradually wore down the stone of the impregnable rock… Unnoticed, the age of the blade changed in Provence to the age of the string. The most famous troubadours of the south found shelter and patronage under the high vaults of the castle of Le Baux. Once again, no one could dispute the primacy of Le-Baux – this time as “court d’amur” – “court of love.” The castle became the center of the “singing south.” However, this age also ended quickly. Since 1528, the town became one of the Protestant strongholds in southern France, which Louis XIII decided to destroy, concerned about the defiance of this fortress. In general, Le Baux has seen a lot. But the town on the mountainside continued to live and preserve its strange ancient customs. Still – since the 16th century – the “death lantern” lights up on the church of Saint Vincent – this is what they call the light on the bell tower that burns all night when someone famous from the town dies. Still – also since the 16th century – on Christmas Eve, a naive and touching “shepherds’ mass” is held in this church. “Mass” is actually a small performance: a procession of elegantly dressed “angels and shepherds” enters the church, bringing their gifts to the infant Christ… The Romanesque chapel of Saint-Blaise from the 12th century has been preserved, which served as a gathering place for wool carders and cloth makers. Now it houses the Olive Oil Museum, where you can learn all about olives, oils, the production of olive oil, and “Marseille soap.” Among the monuments of the distant past are the House of the King, the old town hall, the House of the former governor of Le Baux, Pierre de Porcel (1582-1621), which has preserved 17th-century frescoes, a charming little house with a remarkable facade – the Hôtel de Maviyé, as well as a window with a cross-shaped frame, above which is carved a significant inscription: “After darkness – light,” as a call to new life. In the Museum of History, there are two models of the fortress from the 13th and 16th centuries. And from the fortress itself, only the Sarrazin tower and the de Banne tower remain, rising above the 16th-century settlements. Walking through the narrow streets of Le Baux, one can get acquainted with Provençal crafts, taste various Provençal sweets, and buy as a souvenir from Provence the famous Marseille soap, which is made only from vegetable raw materials, with the scent of lavender, marjoram, and basil.
